Page 16 - July - Sept 2023 Edition

served with a tartar sauce which is among the best we have ever tasted, the fruit salad was
well-chilled, the bar nicely stocked, and the view is sweeping and calming - complete with an
intriguing intro-talk from the senior manager, and lots of happy butterflies! Pre-booking required.
+256 783 910801, +256 772 373967 @Ugandalodgesltd (f t)
9) Queen’s Pavilion:
This is the site where Queen Elizabeth II officially opened the park renamed after her in 1954. It’s
just off the main road, and worth a quick stop for its 360 degree views of the park, and its nod to
history. There’s also a nice banda perfect for a packed lunch or sundowner. 10km north of QENP
main gate. +256 774 408124
10) The Observatory by GeoLodges:
Your own house on a cliff, literally at the edge of the Great Rift Valley! A wraparound terrace on
the ground floor, and a covered deck above, offer endless views of the savanna, grazing
elephants, and glorious sunsets. Everything from the vintage kilims to the weathered-and-comfy
lounges seem eager to tell you their years of stories, while bookshelves offer a range of titles,
periodicals, board-games and toys. Basic beds and linens. The kitchen is complete with a
cooktop, refrigerator (remind them to switch it on at least a day before you arrive), pots and
pans, blender, toaster, and more. Self-catering. (A cook can be arranged for a fee. Bring your
own food, salt, pepper, oil, drinking water, etc.) The home is powered by solar. Splash pool on
site (usage may be limited by issues related to powering the pump). You can load data onto
their Airtel router for internet (spotty at times), but why not disconnect, and enjoy the view!
+256 786 846074, geolodgesafrica.com

11a) Chimpanzee Trekking in the Kyambura Gorge:
Descending into the “Valley of the Apes” is a once-in-a-lifetime experience which some say
surpasses trekking the gorillas. Not for the faint of heart. Tours leave at 8am and 2pm daily. Pay in
advance at a UWA office (nearest is in Katunguru Town, no cash).
11b) Kyambura Gorge Lodge: After the trek, what could make more sense than a
three-course meal at one of the park’s most exclusive lodges, right at the tree-line of the gorge!
The soundtrack includes the warbling of both the Kyambura River and its many feathered and
primate homemakers. For us, among the food offerings de jour were a hot watermelon soup, a
chilled mint and pea purée served with rocket, tilapia with cassava and butternut squash (with
orange and gooseberries), and an incredible, homemade coconut ice cream. This roost is also
great for anyone who would rather experience the gorge only from the rim. Pre-booking
required. +256 772 741720, @volcanoessafaris (f) (SEE AD PAGE 54)

12) Nyore Hillside Retreat:
A sweet stop as you complete our circular route. See more info in my column: “A place along
the way” on page 12
13) Igongo Cultural Centre:
Easy to find right on the main road as you head back to Kampala, this museum and related
monuments are welcoming and fairly-well-done.
Eq)
AidChild Equator Shop is one of Uganda’s only galleries of original art; also a great stop for a
snack in the large garden or terrace. Clean washrooms. A few steps north of equator line.
+256 780 282697, aidchild.org/menu, @AidChildEquator (f i) (This writer founded AidChild)
(SEE AD PAGE 48)

** SEE PHOTOGRAPHS ON THE NEXT PAGE **

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