Page 20 - July - Sept 2023 Edition
P. 20

Birding at dawn by Julia Lloyd   Elephant footprint Sunbird Hill Kibale
                                               by Charlotte Beauvoisin
           LIFE ON THE EDGE


              Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu is  “blogger in residence” at
           Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest, western Uganda.  She writes about what keeps
                                  her up at night:  ELEPHANTS!

           It's dawn and the dogs are barking. If it were   ostensibly to keep elephants inside the
           the tail end of the day, I would hazard a   forest and stop them raiding the villagers'
           guess at elephants disturbing them.   crops.
           Elephants have been common visitors over
           the past weeks. Lying under the thatch of   Elephants can't resist jackfruit and maize.
           my wooden cottage, I listen to the   The scent of the crop carries and the
           splintering of wood as an elephant fells a   elephants will carve a route until their forage
           tree. The boundary of Kibale National Park is   is successful. What doesn't get eaten, gets
           just a few hundred metres away. The sound   trampled. Find an elephant's footprint and
           of a single tree falling is amplified across the   try it on for size. These fellows are even
           dip in the ground that separates us from the   bigger than you think: a grown woman can
           forest. I recall some of my favourite   easily place both feet in one elephant
           experiences here:                    footprint, so can you!

           One morning, we followed a tunnel of   One night, heads buzzing with questions, we
           crushed vegetation on the edge of the   venture down to the forest edge. Julia
           forest to find a large pile of moist elephant   carries a big flashlight and scans the
           dung. A round yellow object protruded   vegetation ahead of us. This season is more
           from it. Sebastian dug out the jackfruit seed   interesting than usual as we contemplate
           with the toe of his gum boot. "See, this is   how the elephants will react to the trench.
           what the farmers have been saying to the   Seen from the tall viewing platform, the
           Uganda Wildlife Authority. This jackfruit seed   trench cuts a red scar across the
           is proof that the elephants have crossed   landscape, delineating the boundary of the
           from the forest onto the farmer's land."  ancient forest from farmland. Here the earth
                                                is rich in minerals. Butterflies love the freshly
           It was exactly this kind of evidence that was   turned earth and flutter through the sunlit air
           filmed and sent to the Parliament of   above the trench.
           Uganda to lobby for protection from the
           elephants. After a decade of pressure from   Activity is always at its most dramatic
           the local villagers, the Uganda Wildlife   around the time of the full moon. The night
           Authority employed 64 men, plus another   air around Sunbird Hill’s 40 acres of forest
           10 from the community, to start digging a  edge habitat is filled with the shouts of
           protective trench along the park boundary,    farmers and their children, warning the


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