Images courtesy of Hemingway Tented Camp
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Welcome To The Eye Magazine Directory
Images courtesy of Hemingway Tented Camp
There are very few places left in Africa that make you feel as though you have discovered a secret.
Places where the journey is as memorable as the destination, and where every moment feels like a chapter in an adventure story. Hemingway’s Tented Camp, tucked away on the banks of the Nile in Murchison Falls National Park, is one of those rare places.
Our journey begins at the Wild Frontiers jetty, where we parked our vehicle and prepared for the next stage of the adventure. Unlike most safari lodges that you simply drive to, getting to Hemingway’s is part of the experience. It feels as though you are leaving the ordinary world behind and stepping into something far more exciting and unknown. Waiting for us at the jetty were Milton and Julius, our guides and boat captains for the afternoon. Their warm smiles and easy-going nature immediately made us feel welcome. After loading our bags into the boat, we climbed aboard and pushed off from shore, beginning the one-hour journey upriver toward the camp.
The Nile stretched out before us, calm and majestic.
The afternoon sun reflected off the water, creating a golden shimmer across the surface. Almost immediately wildlife began to appear. Along the riverbanks, elephants emerged from the bush to drink. Some stood ankle-deep in the water, using their trunks to spray themselves in an attempt to cool off from the heat of the day. Hippos were everywhere. Their eyes and ears poked above the surface as they watched us glide past. Every so often one would yawn, revealing an enormous mouth lined with intimidating teeth. Julius expertly navigated the channels while pointing out pods scattered throughout the river. Further upstream we spotted several large Nile crocodiles stretched out on the sandy banks. They looked almost prehistoric, motionless except for the
occasional flick of a tail. Many appeared to be asleep, basking in the warmth of the afternoon sun. It was remarkable to see these ancient reptiles in such abundance.
One of my favourite sights came as we passed a series of sandy cliffs along the river. Hundreds of Red-throated Bee-eaters had made their nests in the vertical banks. The colourful birds darted in and out of their nesting holes, swooping through the air with incredible speed and agility.
We watched them dive after butterflies and insects, their brilliant colours flashing against the earthy cliffs. It was one of those moments where everything seems perfectly balanced—the river, the birds, the wildlife, and the vast wilderness surrounding us. As we continued upriver, the scenery became more dramatic. The cliffs grew steeper, and the river seemed to narrow as we approached the area beneath Murchison Falls. Then, after what felt like an all-too-short cruise, we arrived at a small landing point.
Waiting for us was something completely unexpected: a beautifully restored World War II jeep. The vehicle looked as though it had been driven straight out of a classic adventure film. Climbing aboard instantly transported us back in time. The engine roared to life, and we set off up the hill. The drive itself was only about 800 metres, but it felt like another world. Dust swirled behind us as we climbed higher, winding our way through the bush. Then, quite suddenly, Hemingway’s Tented Camp appeared.
Perched high on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Nile River far below, it is one of the most breathtaking locations I have ever encountered. The first view stopped me in my tracks. The mighty Nile twisted and wound through the landscape beneath us, framed by endless wilderness stretching to the horizon. Before we could fully absorb the view, the camp staff welcomed us with ice-cold fresh passion fruit juice and icy face towels. After the dusty jeep ride and the long journey to reach camp, the cool towel felt heavenly. It was such a simple gesture, yet it perfectly captured the thoughtful hospitality that defines the Hemingway’s experience. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing and soaking in the incredible surroundings. One of the camp’s most unique features is its natural pebble-stone swimming pool. Unlike a conventional pool, it feels completely at home in the landscape. From the water, we looked out across the cliff edge toward the Nile below. It is difficult to imagine a more peaceful setting.
As the sun began to set, the colours of the landscape changed dramatically. Golds turned to oranges and eventually deep reds as darkness slowly settled across the valley. The river below reflected the fading light while birds called from the surrounding bush.
Dinner that evening was an experience in itself.
Our table was set on the cliff edge beneath a canopy of stars. There are few places where you can truly appreciate the night sky, but Hemingway’s is one of them. Far away from towns and city lights, the stars seemed brighter than I had ever seen. As we enjoyed a delicious three-course meal, satellites drifted silently across the heavens. Every now and then a shooting star would streak overhead, prompting excited conversations and wishes.
The combination of exceptional food, wonderful company, and one of the most spectacular views in Uganda created an evening I will never forget. It felt timeless.
That night I fell asleep to the distant sounds of the thundering falls, and woke early the next morning eager for the next adventure.
One of the great attractions of Hemingway’s Tented Camp is the hiking trail that begins directly from camp and leads all the way to Murchison Falls. After a quick coffee, we set off on foot. The hike covers approximately 3.5 kilometres and follows a beautiful route through the bush before reaching the falls themselves. Along the way we enjoyed incredible viewpoints overlooking the Nile and listened to the sounds of birds echoing through the landscape. Eventually, the mighty Uhuru and Murchison Falls stretched out below us.
No matter how many photographs you have seen, nothing prepares you for standing beside the falls in person. Here, the entire Nile River is forced through a narrow gap in the rocks before exploding into the gorge below. The power is immense. As we approached the base of the falls, a fine mist filled the air. Within moments we were soaked. At Hemingway’s, we affectionately call this the “Hemingway’s Shower.” It is impossible not to laugh as the spray drenches you from head to toe. On a warm Ugandan morning, it is one of the most refreshing experiences imaginable.
At our first viewpoint overlooking the falls, breakfast was prepared right in front of us. Watching eggs, bacon, and fresh coffee being cooked while gazing out over one of Africa’s most powerful waterfalls felt wonderfully indulgent.
The view was extraordinary, the food delicious, and the atmosphere completely unforgettable. It is difficult to think of a better breakfast setting anywhere in the world.
Eventually, however, all adventures must come to an end.
After returning to camp, we enjoyed a refreshing shower, packed our bags, and took one final look at the Nile stretching below the cliff. It was hard to leave. Hemingway’s Tented Camp has a way of making you feel disconnected from the outside world and deeply connected to the wilderness around you. Soon we were back aboard the boat with Milton and Julius, heading downriver toward the jetty where our vehicle waited.
The same river that had carried us into this remarkable experience now carried us away. As the camp disappeared from view behind the cliffs, I realised that what makes Hemingway’s truly special is not just its location or its luxury. It is the sense of adventure. From the boat journey and wildlife encounters to the historic jeep ride, the cliff-top views, the starlit dinners, and the
hike to the falls, every part of the experience feels carefully woven into a story. And like all great stories, it leaves you wanting to return for another chapter.
